The best trailer jacks for travel trailers fall into three clear groups. The Lippert 3,500 lb Electric Tongue Jack 285318 is the best overall pick, the CURT 28250 is the best bolt-on manual replacement, and the Husky HB4500 covers heavy tongue loads. All three use the standard three-hole A-frame pattern, so most trailers need no welding.
Owners rarely buy the wrong jack because of brand. They buy the wrong one because they never check three numbers: their loaded tongue weight, the jack’s retracted height, and whether the handle will hit the truck tailgate while the trailer is still hitched up. Get those right and the choice narrows fast.
I compared all 10 jacks below on load capacity, lift range, power source, mounting style, and warranty length, then grouped them by what they actually do. Everything here was checked against published spec sheets and owner review patterns, and I updated the list for 2026 so the numbers are current.
If you also need to handle the trailer on the water, our boat trailer tongue jack guide covers the lighter-duty end of the same hardware. For the broader category, see the best boat trailer jacks.
Top 3 Trailer Jack Picks in 2026
Lippert 285318 Electric…
- 3500 lb lift capacity
- 18 inch stroke
- 10-3/4 inch retracted
- 4 integrated LED lights
- hand crank included
Husky HB4500 Brute Power Jack
- 4500 lb capacity
- 18 inch travel
- 6 inch drop leg
- Smart Stop auto shutoff
- 3 LED work lights
CURT 28250 A-Frame Jack
- 5000 lb support
- 3000 lb lift
- 14-1/8 inch travel
- top-wind handle
- limited lifetime warranty
Best Trailer Jacks for Travel Trailers (October 2026)
Every jack in this table uses the three standard trailer jack holes or welds on directly. Capacity is the published lift or support rating, not the trailer’s gross weight.
| Product | Specs | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Lippert 285318 Electric Tongue Jack |
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| Husky HB4500 Brute Power Jack |
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| CURT 28250 A-Frame Jack |
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 VEVOR 5000 lb A-Frame Jack |
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 Kohree 4000 lb Electric Jack |
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 POLESTAR 5000 lb Electric Jack |
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 YOMILINK 5000 lb A-Frame Jack |
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 Ultimate Trailer Jack 2000 lb No-Crank |
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 Lippert Quick Drop Tongue Jack |
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 Big Red 2000 lb Weld-On Swivel Jack |
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1. Lippert 3,500 lb Electric Tongue Jack 285318 – Best Overall Electric Jack
Lippert 3,500 lb Electric A-Frame Trailer Tongue Jack, Black, 285318
3500 lb capacity
18 inch stroke
10-3/4 inch retracted,28-3/4 inch extended
4 LED lights
1 year warranty
Pros
- Push-button lift removes hand cranking
- Very quiet helical-cut gear operation
- Owners report 10 to 25 minute self-install
- Rotatable 90 degree head for tailgate clearance
- Hand crank included as manual override
Cons
- Slow travel speed
- High-mounted gear housing can block some tailgates
- Electrical connectors and ring terminal not included
- Lowest lift capacity among the powered jacks here
With more than 6,000 reviews behind it, this is the jack most owners end up with, and for a straightforward reason: it works, it is quiet, and it fits the jack plate already on their trailer. The 12V motor drives helical-cut gears that reviewers describe as smooth rather than merely functional.
The 18 inch stroke gives you 10-3/4 inch retracted and 28-3/4 inch extended height, which covers most travel trailer A-frames without a drop leg. The four integrated LED lights throw light onto the ball and coupler, so night hookup in a dark campground or a wet parking lot is not a guessing game.
Installation is the part that surprises people most. Owners regularly report completing the swap, wiring included, in 10 to 25 minutes. The head rotates 90 degrees, which is how Lippert gets around the tailgate problem that plagues fixed-head competitors.
Two things to know before you order. The stock electrical connectors and battery ring terminal are not in the box, so plan on a few dollars at an auto parts counter for those. And the travel speed is slow, which some owners appreciate as fine motor control and others read as sluggish.
Is 3,500 lb enough for a typical travel trailer?
For most trailers in the 2,000 to 4,000 lb range of loaded tongue weight, yes. The rating is what matters, not the trailer’s gross weight, and tongue weight on a mid-size travel trailer typically runs between 8 and 15 percent of loaded weight. Check the trailer’s own GVWR sticker or manual before you commit, because an overloaded hitch is a frame problem, not a jack problem.
When is this the wrong jack to buy?
Skip it if your tongue weight is genuinely heavy, if your existing jack plate has a bolt pattern the three standard holes will not reach, or if you tow with a truck whose tailgate is unusually low and non-clearance. In those cases the Husky HB4500 or the CURT 28250 is a better starting point.
2. Husky HB4500 Brute Power Jack – Best Electric Jack for Heavy Tongue Loads
Husky HB4500 4500 lbs. Brute Power Jack, Hammer Gray Finish
4500 lb capacity
18 inch travel plus 6 inch drop leg
33.5 x 11.5 x 6.8 inch body
25 amp draw
1 year warranty
Pros
- 4500 lb rating handles heavy tongue loads
- Mounts in two orientations for tailgate clearance
- Smart Stop cuts power before the hard stop
- Smooth and quiet under load
- Oval mounting holes simplified fitment
Cons
- Mounting bolts and washers not included
- LED work lights reported as weak
- Retract speed is modest
- Manual crank needs a hidden brake lever released
This is the powered jack to look at when the 3,500 lb class feels marginal. The HB4500 carries a 4,500 lb rating, adds a 6 inch drop-down leg to its 18 inch of travel, and uses oval mounting holes that owners say made the fit easy on trailers with older or irregular plates.
Long-term owners describe it as beefy and uneventful, with several multi-year reports of trouble-free service on heavy trailers. Smart Stop is a planetary gear timing system that cuts power before the leg reaches the hard mechanical stop, which is exactly the feature that prevents the blown-fuse problem that ruins cheap electric jacks.
The jack can be mounted in two orientations, and that single design decision answers the most common complaint on trailer forums: the handle hitting the tailgate while the trailer is still hitched to the truck. Owners cite it as a frequently mentioned benefit of the swap.
Plan on sourcing your own hardware. Mounting bolts and some flat washers are not in the box, and the work lights are dim enough that reviewers call them weak. If you crank it manually, you need to find and release a small electric brake lever first, which owners find a little odd but workable.
How much heavier is 4,500 lb than 3,500 lb in practice?
It is 1,000 lb of additional static capacity, roughly a 29 percent jump. That margin matters on larger travel trailers where the tongue weight creeps up with gear, water, and propane. It also gives you headroom so you are never running near the top of the rating, which is where screws bind and motors strain.
What should I add to the box before installing?
Grab the correct grade of mounting bolts and flat washers to match your plate thickness, plus your own wiring connectors and a ring terminal. If the existing bolt holes are oversized or elongated, add a couple of hardened washers behind the head so the nut has a full bearing surface instead of pulling through the steel.
3. CURT 28250 A-Frame Trailer Jack – Best Bolt-On Manual Replacement
CURT 28250 A-Frame Trailer Jack, 5,000 lb Support, 14″ Travel
5000 lb support,3000 lb lift
14-1/8 inch travel
10-3/8 inch retracted,24-1/2 inch extended
Powder coat over zinc
1 year finish and parts
Pros
- Bolts into the three standard holes
- no weld shop required
- Smooth cranking that beats most factory jacks
- Support rating above typical OEM aluminum jacks
- Limited lifetime warranty on the unit
- Low cost for a 5000 lb support jack
Cons
- Mounting hardware not included
- No drop leg or foot pad supplied
- Manual top-wind only
Most people replacing a bent or seized OEM tongue jack do not want a welder in their life. The CURT 28250 drops into the three standard trailer jack mounting holes, which is the pattern on the overwhelming majority of A-frame trailers, and it is the manual option I would put on a trailer that is already level and stable.
The numbers separate support from lift. It is rated 5,000 lb support and 3,000 lb lift, with 14-1/8 inches of vertical movement from 10-3/8 inch retracted to 24-1/2 inch extended. The top-wind handle has an integrated grip, and reviewers report the cranking action is smoother than the jack it replaced.
The black powder coat over zinc plating is what keeps it alive in salted-road regions, and the limited lifetime warranty on the unit is the strongest coverage in this group, though finish and parts are still covered for one year each.
Two gaps. Mounting hardware is not included, so pick up your own bolts. There is no drop leg and no foot pad, so if you want the extra leveling range you will need to add a drop-leg assembly, which is a common and inexpensive upgrade.
Is a manual crank realistic for everyday hookup?
For a healthy owner cranking roughly 20 turns from fully retracted takes under a minute. The people who cannot manage that, or who simply do not want to, are the exact owners who should look at the electric options further down this list. Manual is not a quality judgment, it is a mobility and convenience decision.
Will it fit my trailer without modifications?
Almost certainly, if your tongue uses the standard three-hole pattern. Measure the retracted height of your existing jack first, though, because 10-3/8 inch is not universal. If your old jack sits higher, the coupler may not clear the ball when fully retracted.
4. VEVOR 5000 lb A-Frame Trailer Jack – Best Jack with a Three-Level Drop Leg
VEVOR 5000 lbs A-Frame Trailer Jack, 15″ Vertical Travel, Adjustable Drop Leg, for Horse, Utility, Yacht Trailers
5000 lb capacity
9.65 to 24.64 inch lift range
3-level drop leg
Carbon steel,galvanized tubes
5 kg unit weight
Pros
- 5000 lb rating in a compact manual jack
- Three-position drop leg fine-tunes leveling height
- Swivels up parallel to the tongue for towing
- Detachable crank handle doubles as a power-outage backup
- Galvanized tubes resist corrosion
Cons
- Manual handle only on this variant
- Included mounting hardware is minimal
- No listed warranty coverage
The VEVOR solves a specific leveling problem: getting a trailer to sit flat when the tongue height is awkward. A three-level adjustable drop leg lets you change the leg length in discrete steps, which is faster than cranking a screw extension and more durable than a screw leg under load.
Its 9.65 to 24.64 inch lifting range gives you a lot of latitude, and the jack swivels up parallel to the tongue for towing so nothing hangs low behind the coupler. Owners across more than 1,200 reviews use it on horse, utility, boat, and travel trailers.
The build is heavy-duty carbon steel with galvanized inner and outer tubes and a powder finish, which is the right combination for road salt and rain. The detachable handle means you can crank manually during a power outage, though this variant has no electric option at all.
The honest limitation is hardware. Reviewers note the included mounting hardware is minimal, so plan to source your own bolts and possibly a foot pad. It also does not carry the same warranty certainty that name-brand jacks offer, which matters if you want someone to answer the phone.
Is a drop leg better than a screw extension leg?
For leveling, yes. A drop leg changes height in fixed steps with no threaded load carrying, so it will not gall, strip, or creep. A screw extension leg gives finer incremental control but works the threads every time you turn it, and those threads are the part that fails.
Will the swivel get in the way at low hitch heights?
It folds up parallel to the tongue, so the ground clearance under the coupler stays consistent. The thing to check is the swing arc against your tow vehicle, since a jack that folds flat still occupies a wide circle when it is dropped. Measure before you commit.
5. Kohree 4000 lb Electric Trailer Jack – Best Budget Electric Upgrade
Kohree Electric Trailer Jack 4000lbs with Wiring, Heavy Duty, A-Frame
4000 lb dynamic,6000 lb static
47 seconds to lift 8 inches
9 inch retracted,22 inch extended
5-gear drop leg
1 year warranty
Pros
- Lifts faster than rated in owner comparisons
- Switch is clearly labeled retract and extend
- Weatherproof cover included
- Multiple hole positions match existing A-frames
- Strong value over hand cranking daily
Cons
- Power wire too short to reach the battery
- Head cannot be rotated for tailgate clearance
- One report of a bent foot pad within three uses
- Lift speed ranges from slow to adequate
The Kohree is the conversion kit answer. If you already have a working manual jack plate and want push-button lifting without spending name-brand money, this is the pick, and owners coming off hand cranking consistently call it a worthwhile upgrade.
It is rated 4,000 lb dynamic load and 6,000 lb static lifting on a 12V DC motor, rated to lift 8 inches in 47 seconds. Multiple mounting hole positions mean it often lands on the existing A-frame holes without drilling, and the retract and extend switch is labeled clearly enough that you will not run it backwards at a dark campsite.
The included weatherproof jack cover is a detail owners specifically mention as something they had never had before. Two LED lights sit at the base, and a built-in circuit breaker trips on over-amperage and resets on its own after roughly two minutes, which saves the unit from the single most common way electric jacks get killed.
The real drawbacks are electrical and dimensional. The power lead is reported as too short to reach the battery without splicing, and the head cannot be rotated, so a lowered truck tailgate can hit it. There is also a documented case of the foot pad bending after only three uses on a trailer that was not overloaded.
Is 4,000 lb dynamic load enough for a mid-size trailer?
Yes for most mid-size travel trailers, and the 6,000 lb static figure is the number that matters when the trailer is parked and fully loaded. Dynamic load is the rating while the jack is moving under load, static is the hold capacity once stopped, and both are comfortably above typical tongue weights in this class.
What is the hardest part of installing it?
Running the power wire. Plan the route from the jack to the battery ahead of time, allow extra length for splicing if the supplied lead comes up short, and use a proper ring terminal and a clean ground point on bare metal. Add an inline fuse close to the battery so a chafed wire never becomes a smoke event.
6. POLESTAR 5000 lb Electric Power A-Frame Tongue Jack – Best High-Capacity Electric Swap
POLESTAR Electric Trailer Jack, 5000lbs Electric Power A-Frame Tongue Jack
5000 lb dynamic,7500 lb static
Ball screw drive
9 inch retracted to 27 inch,4.5 inch drop leg
Auto-reset circuit breaker
1 year warranty
Pros
- Ball screw gives smooth and quiet lifting
- 5000 lb rating is a real jump over factory jacks
- Same footprint and wiring as the common OEM electric jack
- Waterproof cover and LED lighting included
- Owners reuse existing mounting bolts
Cons
- Inline fuse is a non-standard type
- Support contact is confusing to reach
- Will not mount sideways for tailgate clearance
- Longevity unproven with some early failures
The POLESTAR is the capacity upgrade for people replacing a tired 3,500 lb factory electric. It holds 5,000 lb dynamic and 7,500 lb static on a ball screw drive with a brake motor, which is why owners single out the smoothness and quietness rather than just the power.
Its real convenience is compatibility. Owners report that the physical footprint and wiring match the common OEM electric jack, so several reused their existing mounting bolts for a clean fit with no drilling. The lift range runs from 9 inch retracted to 27 inch, plus a 4.5 inch drop leg for 31.5 inch total.
A waterproof rain cover and LEDs aimed down at the ball and coupler come in the box, along with a built-in circuit breaker that trips and resets on over-amperage. That protection is what keeps a jack alive when someone holds the rocker switch after the leg bottoms out.
Two things temper the recommendation. The inline fuse is a non-standard type that is hard to source locally, which is annoying when you need one on the road. And several buyers report intermittent failure within months, so long-term durability is genuinely unproven despite the strong feature set.
Will it replace my factory electric jack without drilling?
In most cases yes, which is the main reason to buy it. Owners swapping common OEM electric units report matching bolt spacing and matching wiring, so the job is unbolt, unplug, bolt, plug. Verify your existing jack’s plate and wire gauge first, since not every factory unit uses the same pattern.
What should I carry as a spare?
A set of the same non-standard inline fuse in a few amp ratings, plus a spare set of ring terminals and a length of the right wire gauge. The fuse is the component you are most likely to need away from a driveway, and the failure that causes is a dead jack with no obvious reason.
7. YOMILINK 5000 lb A-Frame Trailer Jack – Best Heavy-Build Manual Jack
YOMILINK 5000 lbs A-Frame Trailer Jack, 15″ Lift, Adjustable Drop Leg
5000 lb capacity
23.2 to 45.6 inch height range
6 cm / 2.36 inch tube
5-level drop leg
Grade 5 and GB 8.8 studs
Pros
- Highest average rating in this group at 4.8 with an 88 percent five-star share
- High carbon steel build owners describe as over-engineered
- Grease nipple included for maintenance
- Drainage holes in the base shed moisture
- Five-level drop leg makes leveling easy
Cons
- Bottom plate is not removable for low tongues
- Included bolts reported as too short for thread engagement
- Needs clearance under the jack before uncoupling
The YOMILINK has the highest satisfaction ratio of anything in this roundup, with an 88 percent five-star share across more than 450 reviews. Owners describe the high carbon steel build as heavier than expected in a good way, and they consistently report it outlasting the factory jacks it replaced.
Two small details separate it from cheaper manual jacks. There is a grease nipple, so the screw can be serviced instead of being a sealed wear item, and drainage holes are drilled into the base so rain and road grime do not sit in a sump under the leg.
Capacity is 5,000 lb with height adjusting from 23.2 to 45.6 inches on a 6 cm tube, and the five-level drop leg plus front-mounted wind handle make leveling straightforward. Every stud is Grade 5 or GB 8.8, which is a hardware grade you rarely see at this level.
The recurring installation complaint is the fixed bottom plate. On a trailer with a low tongue you will need another jack to lift the frame enough to slide it in, and the included bolts are reported as too short to give full thread engagement. Buy longer bolts and check your clearance before uncoupling from the hitch.
Why does a grease nipple matter on a jack?
Because the screw is the wear item. A jack that can be lubricated lets you add grease before the threads gall, which extends service life dramatically compared to a sealed screw in road salt. It costs nothing at purchase and almost nothing to use.
Can I install it on a trailer with a low A-frame?
Only with care. The bottom plate does not come off, so the leg has to slide up under the frame. If your tongue sits close to the ground, plan to support the frame with a separate jack or jack stands first. Owners also note you need to leave clearance under the jack before you disconnect the hitch ball.
8. Ultimate Trailer Jack 2000 lb No-Crank Tongue Jack – Best for Fast Manual Adjustment
The Ultimate Trailer Jack – USA-Owned – Fastest Jack on The Market – 2000lb No-Crank Tongue Jack for Boat, RV & Utility Trailers
2000 lb lift,3000 lb support
12 inch drop leg plus 15.5 inch topwind lift
Zinc-coated exterior
Internal roller bearings
12 pound unit weight
Pros
- Internal roller bearings cut cranking effort
- 12 inch drop leg plus 15.5 inch of travel
- Retracts flush with the frame for towing
- Universal bolt-on fit for several trailer types
Cons
- 2000 lb rating is the lowest in this group
- Not sized for heavy travel trailer tongue loads
- Mounting hardware not included
This is the fastest manual adjustment we found, and the mechanism behind that is the internal roller bearings. Owners report noticeably reduced cranking effort compared with a conventional screw jack, and the 12 inch drop leg combined with 15.5 inch of topwind travel gives a wide adjustment window.
It retracts flush with the trailer frame when you are towing, and it is a bolt-on installation, so no welding is involved. At 12 pound it is also one of the lighter options, which matters if you are moving it around by hand.
Be clear about the ceiling: 2,000 lb lift capacity and 3,000 lb support. That is sized for light utility, boat, and small RV trailers, not for a loaded travel trailer carrying a full tongue weight. On a heavier trailer you would be running the screw at its limit in normal use.
Mounting hardware is not included, so source your own bolts before you start. This is a solid pick for a small trailer or a boat trailer, and a poor pick as a replacement for a mid-size travel trailer tongue jack. If you tow boats, our boat trailer jack guide covers the sizing question in more depth.
Is 2,000 lb enough for a travel trailer?
Usually not. A small trailer running 400 to 500 lb of tongue weight fits comfortably, but a mid-size travel trailer at 1,000 lb or more pushes a 2,000 lb jack into territory where the screw works constantly and the rating leaves no safety margin. Check your tongue weight first.
What do roller bearings actually improve?
They replace sliding friction with rolling friction inside the gearbox, so the handle turns with noticeably less resistance and the screw stays smoother longer. It is the same reason a good kitchen faucet feels different, and it is the single biggest handling improvement on a manual jack.
9. Lippert Quick Drop Tongue Jack – Best Jack for Drill-Powered Lifting
Lippert Quick Drop Tongue Jack for A-Frame Travel, Cargo, and Utility Trailers or 5th Wheel RVs, Black
2000 lb capacity
14 inch stroke
5.4 inch removable foot pad
3/4 inch hex drive
Black powder-coated zinc
Pros
- Hex crank accepts a cordless drill
- Removable foot pad and locking pin
- Direct replacement on many Lippert A-frames
- No wiring to run
- Simple powder-coated zinc build
Cons
- Lowest average rating in this group at 4.3
- 2000 lb capacity is low for modern tongue loads
- Needs a cordless drill and socket adapter for powered use
The Quick Drop is a clever middle path between a hand crank and a full electric install. The top of the crank has a 3/4 inch hex nut, so a cordless drill with a socket adapter turns it. Owners get electric-style convenience with no wiring, no fuse, and no motor to fail.
It is rated 2,000 lb with a 14 inch stroke and a 5.4 inch foot pad that removes for servicing, secured by a locking pin. For Lippert-equipped A-frame trailers it is often a direct replacement for the factory jack, which makes the swap predictable.
The catch is the 2,000 lb rating, and it shows in the numbers. This jack carries the lowest average rating in the group at 4.3 with an 11 percent one-star share, and the most common reason given is simply that the capacity is below what modern travel trailer tongue loads require.
If you own one of the lighter trailers where 2,000 lb is genuinely sufficient, this is a well-made answer with almost no installation cost. If you are replacing a jack on anything mid-size, pick a 5,000 lb manual or a 4,000 lb electric instead.
Is a drill-driven jack really better than a small electric jack?
It is better in one specific way: there is no electrical system to fail. No fuse, no ground, no motor, no corrosion path. The failure modes of a cordless drill are ones you can see and replace in a minute. The tradeoff is that you need a charged battery and a socket adapter on hand.
Will it match the factory jack on my Lippert trailer?
On most Lippert-equipped A-frame trailers it is intended as a direct replacement. Confirm the retracted height and the three-hole spacing against your existing jack before ordering, since older frames occasionally carry a different plate. The removable foot pad also means you can swap the pad rather than the whole jack if yours is damaged.
10. Big Red 2000 lb Weld-On Pipe Mount Swivel Trailer Jack – Budget Pick for Boats and Light Trailers
Big RED 2000 LBs Capacity Weld on Pipe Mount Swivel Trailer Jack, ATR39003R
2000 lb lift capacity
10-1/2 inch retracted,20-1/2 inch extended
Zinc-plated alloy steel
Pipe-mount swivel bracket
1 year warranty
Pros
- Lowest cost in the roundup with a 4.7 average and 1 percent one-star share
- Zinc plating holds up against road salt
- Pipe mount folds the jack up for towing
- Top-wind handle with an integrated grip
- Fixed base resists flex under tongue weight
Cons
- 2000 lb capacity suits light trailers and boats
- Requires welding a pipe bracket to the tongue
- Only a limited 1 year warranty
The Big Red is the cheapest jack here and one of the highest rated, at 4.7 across more than 1,400 reviews with only a 1 percent one-star share. Owners single out the zinc-plated steel holding up against road salt and moisture, which is the honest test for this kind of hardware.
Retracted height is 10-1/2 inches and extended is 20-1/2 inches on a 2,000 lb rating. The pipe-mount swivel bracket welds to the tongue, then the jack folds up out of the way for travel, and the top-wind handle with an integrated grip makes cranking comfortable.
The fixed base is sturdier than it looks and resists flex under tongue weight, which is the failure mode that makes cheap pipe-mount jacks bend. Installation is the trade-off: this one needs welding, so it suits a boat or utility trailer where you already have a welder or a shop.
At 2,000 lb it is a light-trailer tool, not a travel trailer tool, and the warranty is a limited 1 year. For a small trailer or a boat, that combination of zinc plating, folding bracket, and low cost is hard to argue with.
Is a weld-on jack harder to install than a bolt-on?
Considerably. A bolt-on jack needs a wrench and a plate that is already drilled. A weld-on pipe mount needs you to position the bracket, clamp it square, and weld it, which means a welder and paint afterwards to stop rust at the joint. If you do not have that setup, choose the CURT or VEVOR instead.
Will 2,000 lb carry a small travel trailer?
For very small trailers with light tongue loads, yes. Measure your actual tongue weight before deciding, and if it exceeds roughly 1,000 lb, step up to a 5,000 lb manual jack. Running a jack at or near its rating is the leading cause of seized screws and bent foot pads.
How to Size a Tongue Jack for Your Travel Trailer
Size a tongue jack at about 1.5 times your loaded tongue weight, and never below the trailer’s own factory rating. Tongue weight is the forward load pressing down on the hitch ball, typically 8 to 15 percent of the trailer’s loaded weight, and it is the single number that decides whether a jack is adequate.
Find your tongue weight on the trailer’s GVWR sticker inside the kitchen cabinet or on the frame rail, or in the trailer manual. If you tow with substantial weight behind the ball, subtract the hitch ball load from the sticker number for a more honest figure.
Find the loaded tongue weight on the GVWR sticker or in the manual.
Multiply by 1.5 to get your target capacity, so you keep a safety margin.
Compare that number against the jack’s lift rating, not its support rating.
Check that the jack’s extended height clears the coupler at your hitch height.
Confirm the retracted height is short enough to fully clear the ball when hitched.
A trailer with 1,000 lb of tongue weight wants a jack rated 1,500 lb or more, and most owners should aim for 5,000 lb on a mid-size trailer simply because the headroom costs almost nothing. The two 2,000 lb jacks in this roundup, the Lippert Quick Drop and the Big Red, sit at the bottom of the range and suit small trailers and boats.
How to Measure Your Trailer for Jack Fitment
Measure four things before you order, and the tailgate clearance check is the one that causes the most returns. The most repeated complaint on travel trailer forums is an OEM handle that does not collapse and hits the tailgate while the trailer is still hitched up.
Measure your existing jack’s retracted and extended height with a tape, in inches.
Measure the jack plate: overall dimensions and the distance between the three mounting holes.
Check the handle swing against your tow vehicle’s tailgate with the trailer fully hitched.
Confirm the leg has enough drop and travel to reach level ground on your campsite pitch.
Verify the foot pad clears the ground before you uncouple the hitch ball.
If clearance is a problem, owners have a well-known fix: remove the two side bolts, lift the head, and rotate the jack 90 degrees so the handle points along the tongue instead of across it. Some jacks, including the Lippert 285318, are designed with a rotatable head for exactly this reason. Where clearance is genuinely tight, a trailer fender and clearance check alongside your jack swap catches related issues early.
Jack Types Explained: Tongue, Stabilizer, Scissor, and A-Frame
A tongue jack carries the trailer’s front weight and raises or lowers the coupler. A stabilizer or scissor jack at the corners only holds the trailer level after it is unhitched, and that load difference is the answer to the most common terminology question in this category.
Stabilizer jacks and leveling jacks are the same hardware with different expectations. Stabilizers are not built to lift. Owners report repeatedly that front stabilizers buckle or bend the frame when used to raise a trailer, so level with the tongue jack first, drop the stabilizers second, and never stand under a trailer supported only by its tongue jack or its corners.
An A-frame jack is simply a tongue jack mounted on an A-frame coupler, which is the configuration for nearly all travel trailers. A jiffy jack is a different tool entirely: a drive-on screw or ratchet jack used for roadside tire changes, not for tongue weight. Stabilizer sizing and the language around them is covered further in our wheel bearing maintenance guide for the rest of the chassis.
Why a Trailer Jack Stops Working and How to Fix It
Most electric jacks that appear dead are not motor failures. Across owner reports, the cause is a blown inline fuse, a corroded power connection, or a bad ground, in that order, and all three are checkable in a few minutes with basic tools.
Check the inline fuse first. Holding the rocker switch after the jack reaches the end of its travel is the single most common cause of a blown fuse, and the fix is a correctly rated replacement, not a larger one.
Inspect the power feed wire nuts and connectors. Corrosion here is the usual reason a jack works in the driveway and dies in the rain. Cut back to bright copper, crimp properly, and seal each joint.
Verify the ground. Scrape the paint to bare metal, bolt the ring terminal down tight, and confirm it is not sharing a corroded bracket with another circuit.
Test the limit switch and auto-reset breaker. Units with a built-in circuit breaker that resets after about two minutes are protecting themselves; repeated resets mean an over-amperage condition, not a dead motor.
Check the motor last. A motor that hums without moving usually has a stripped gearbox. A motor with no sound at all, on confirmed power and ground, points to the motor or the control switch.
For Lippert-equipped trailers, the same sequence applies to the Smart Jack systems: fuse, wire nuts, ground, then motor. And if the jack lifts partway and stops every time at the same height, that is mechanical binding or a load beyond the rating, not an electrical fault.
What Actually Matters When You Buy a Trailer Jack
Capacity and fitment decide whether a jack works. Everything else is preference. In priority order, look at load rating against tongue weight, then retracted and extended height, then the mounting pattern, then power source, then warranty.
On the value question that comes up constantly: Harbor Freight Haul-Master jacks appear in the shopping results with ratings around 4.8 and review counts in the hundreds, and owners on forums generally describe them as strong value. The tradeoff with any budget brand is usually the same, which is finish consistency and warranty responsiveness, not structural strength.
Put a wood block or pad under the jack foot on soft ground. It spreads the load so the foot does not punch into grass or sand and tip the trailer, and on gravel it keeps the foot pad level. Use a jack stand or a rated support any time you get under the trailer, because a jack is not a stand.
The best way to jack up a travel trailer safely is straightforward: chock the wheels, level on a firm surface, support the frame with stands rated above the load, and never rely on the tongue jack alone with your body underneath. When replacing a jack, the sequence is disconnect power, chock, support the frame, unbolt the old jack, clean the mounting surface, bolt the new one to grade-rated hardware, torque it, then rewire with a fresh inline fuse and clean ground.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best jack for a travel trailer?
The Lippert 3,500 lb Electric Tongue Jack 285318 is the best overall pick for most travel trailers, with more than 6,000 reviews, quiet helical-cut gear operation, integrated LED lighting, and a rotatable head that helps with tailgate clearance. The CURT 28250 is the best bolt-on manual replacement, and the Husky HB4500 covers heavy tongue loads with its 4,500 lb rating and 6 inch drop leg.
What size power jack do I need for my travel trailer?
Choose a jack rated at about 1.5 times your loaded tongue weight. Tongue weight is typically 8 to 15 percent of your trailer’s loaded weight and is listed on the GVWR sticker. A 1,000 lb tongue weight calls for at least a 1,500 lb jack, and most owners of mid-size trailers should aim for a 5,000 lb manual jack or a 4,000 lb electric for headroom.
Are Harbor Freight trailer jacks any good?
Owners generally describe Haul-Master jacks from Harbor Freight as strong value, and their listings typically show ratings near 4.8 with review counts in the hundreds. The usual tradeoff with budget brands is finish consistency and warranty responsiveness rather than structural strength, since a jack that meets its load rating rarely fails from the frame.
Are stabilizer jacks the same as leveling jacks?
They are the same hardware, but the expectations are different. Stabilizer jacks hold a trailer level once it is unhitched and are not built to lift. Owners report front stabilizers buckling and bending frames when used to raise a trailer, so level with the tongue jack first, then drop the stabilizers to hold the trailer steady.
Why put wood under a trailer jack?
A wood block or pad under the jack foot spreads the load so the foot does not sink into soft ground and tip the trailer, and it keeps the foot pad level on gravel. It is a simple way to prevent the rocking and swaying that leads to stuck doors, damaged slide-outs, and unstable steps at the campsite.
Why is my electric trailer jack not lifting?
Check the inline fuse first, because holding the rocker switch after the leg reaches the end of its travel is the most common cause. Next inspect the power feed wire nuts and connectors for corrosion, then verify the ground is tight on bare metal. A jack that stops at the same height every time is mechanically bound or carrying more load than its rating.
Why does my trailer jack handle hit my tailgate?
It happens because many factory handles do not collapse and the jack sits directly behind the coupler. The common owner fix is to remove the two side bolts, lift the head, and rotate the jack 90 degrees so the handle points along the tongue. Some models, including the Lippert 285318, have a head designed to rotate for exactly this reason.
The Best Trailer Jacks for Travel Trailers in 2026
The Lippert 285318 electric tongue jack is the pick for most owners in 2026, because it fits the standard three-hole plate, installs fast, and carries the deepest review history in the category. Choose the Husky HB4500 if your tongue weight is heavy, the CURT 28250 if you want a bolt-on manual that needs no wiring, and the YOMILINK 5000 lb jack if you want the heaviest steel build with a serviceable grease fitting.
For the 2,000 lb class, the Lippert Quick Drop is the smart pick if you own a cordless drill, and the Big Red pipe mount is the right cheap option for a boat or small utility trailer. Measure your tongue weight and your jack plate before anything else, and take the tailgate clearance check seriously.
Read our boat trailer tongue jack guide if your trailer spends more time on a ramp than in a campground.